koibumi to Japan

Mount Fuji, from Otsuki Station

It was a glorious twelve days in Japan, full of sights and sounds and smells and tastes and wonderment. I have been sitting on this post for weeks now, trying my hardest to encapsulate what was a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Mostly, I've been coming up short. So, in typical copout fashion, I came up with a list; my only consolation is that I think my Japanese friends will appreciate the format.

Organisation: so, it’s no secret that the Japanese are uber-organised. Everything has its place, every cubby labelled and every action accompanied by a little note (or a paper crane, whatever). I guess it’s the motivation behind this organisation that surprises me: comfort. Despite not knowing the language (like, at all) or the customs, I found that the signs and symbols and sometimes downright meticulous instructions were a big help to me. There were arrows on stairs to tell us which way to walk up in crowded places, tiles on the floor to tell us where our train car would be and how to line up, detailed breakdowns on Ryokan etiquette (how to tie your yukata, take a bath, wear your shoes)… I know. I know, it sounds crazy. But let me tell you, it made it so easy to navigate.

People: are amazing.

• There I was, in Electric Town, asking for a (moveable) robot and when the clerk couldn’t explain where it was, he (literally) took me by the arm, out the store, down the street, around the corner, two blocks over to the store that would have it. Toys. Of course. Arigato.
• Then there’s Mastunoya in Nikko, who gently explained the “correct” way to tie my kimono and who arranged for our luggage to be kept at the Dumpling Shop while we walked about the UNESCO Toshugu Temples. She explained each of our sixteen courses to us at every meal and made sure we understood the complicated “bath” system. She was truly remarkable.
• Let me not forget our awesome cab driver who, despite struggling with English, found us our restaurant. I mean he stopped the meter, got out of the car, walked the block and then pointed us directly to the doorstep, saying “fifth floor” until we understood that there was no entrance on the ground level. Would we have found it ourselves? Maybe, eventually. But we didn’t have to.

…and let’s remember, poppets, there is no “tipping” there. These guys aren’t being obsequious in order to get some payoff. They treated us with dignity, respect, and courtesy, because it is the right thing to do. How can we teach that to our colleagues and employees? No wonder they have such disdain for our “tourist” industry and prefer to travel in packs.

Heat: don’t go to Japan in August. That is all.

Ancient/Future: something I read on my way home really struck me.



Narita International Airport



Kyoto

I think one of the best experiences I had, was that of walking a couple of blocks and experiencing all that was old (did you know Kyoto has seventeen UNESCO World Heritage Sites?) and all that was ultra-new (bullet trains going 300 kph must be marvel of the modern age). I spent my mornings in temples and gardens, my afternoons on busy streets and packed transit, my evenings in restaurants with floating sushi and Alice waitresses. I sat across from Geishas in full makeup while riding the Ginza subway line. I stood on Mount Fuji. I touched the ancient shellacked wood of temples and stood in awe of the Grand Buddha, with his three-foot eyes and hands the size of my balcony. I couldn’t have asked for a more diverse and fulfilling experience. All while enjoying clean tap water and air conditioning.

Honestly, I had an amazing time. I was exhausted, hot, in soda withdrawal, and none of it mattered. Thanks to Nish for making it happen and to AnCe for being good company.